Canal Saint-Martin

Café Le Cinquante sounds like a wonderful old-world bar (not on the tourist radar) – we have to try the charcuterie and cheese platter and wine.

Read the French review at Le Bonbon. “Bref, un endroit cool et cosy, au bon tissu, table en bois, tableaux et couleurs d’époque. C’est sombre mais chaleureux, et les planches de charcuterie et fromages sont au top. Le vin également, et les petites assiettes à essayer.”

Café Le Cinquante
50 Rue Lancry 75010
01 42 02 36 83
Métro Jacques Bonsergent
Mon-Sun 17h30-2h00


Rue Montorgueuil

Rue Montorgueil market street scene

Rue Montorgueil is a street in the 2nd arrondissement (in the Châtelet-Les Halles district). Lined with famous restaurants, quaint cafés, bakeries (including La Maison Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in Paris, opened in 1730 – it was here baba au rhum was invented more than 275 years ago), fish stores, cheese shops, wine shops, produce stands and flower shops, rue Montorgueil is one of the best places for Parisians to socialize while doing their daily shopping. – Wikipedia.

Stohrer – Pâtissier Traiteur
51 rue Montorgueil, 75002
Mon-Sun,  7h30-20h30

“Cafe Marie Stuart on rue Montorgueuil for their crazy delish ‘mac and cheese’ really try it” – Janine

Café Marie Stuart
58 Rue Montorgueil, 75002
Mon-Sun, 15h00-02H00

My favourite pavement in the world.
My favourite pavement in the world.

Wine Bars

Le Rubis
10 rue du Marché St Honoré, 75001
01 42 61 03 34
M°: Tuileries

Verjus Bar à Vins
47, rue de Montpensier, 75001
01 42 97 54 40
M° Pyramides
Mon-Fri. 30-40€

The American owners of this new wine and whisky bar ran a successful supperclub in Paris before going legit at the end of last year. Pop in for small plates of milk-fried chicken, celeriac ravioli with dan-dan sauce, and shoestring fries with togarashi and ketchup.

Spring Boutique
6 rue Bailleul, 75001
01 58 62 44 30
M° Louvre-Rivoli

Not a wine bar as such (it closes at 10pm), this little offshoot of Daniel Rose’s gastronomic restaurant, Spring, is a casual space for wine-tasting – try the Spring Drink sampler, €10 – with accompanying hams, cheeses and so on if you’re peckish.

Frenchie Bar à Vins
5 rue du Nil, 75002
01 40 39 96 19
M° Sentier

Good luck getting a table at Gregory Marchand’s tiny néo-bistrot Frenchie – it’s more or less hopeless. His new wine bar over the road is a good, supremely relaxed place to console yourself with a glass of low-intervention wine and a plate of excellent terroirs-y food.

Caves Legrand
4 rue des Petits Champs (Galerie Vivienne), 75002
01 42 60 07 12
M°: Bourse

3, rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie, 75004
01 42 74 71 52
M° Hotel-de-ville/St. Paul
Mon-Sun. 40€

La Tartine
24 rue de Rivoli, 75004
01 42 72 76 85
M°: St. Paul

Le Porte-Pot
14 Rue Boutebrie, 75005
01 43 25 24 24
M° Cluny-Sorbonne

Les Papillions
139 rue Mouffetard, 75005
01 43 31 66 50
M°: Censier-Daubenton

La Palette
43 rue de Seine, 75006
01 43 26 68 15
M°: St-Germain-des-Pres

La Quincave
17 Rue Brea, 75006
M° Vavin

La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels
7, rue Lobineau, 75006
09 54 90 20 20
M° Odeon
Mon-Sun. 20-30€

Part-owned by one of Paris’s biggest Bordeaux dealers, this is no place to try modish vins naturs – rather dip into an interesting global selection by the glass. Great atmosphere, attractive loungey decor, so-so food (stick with the pata negra ham).

Le Boudoir
25, rue du Colisée, 75008
01 43 59 25 29
M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Mon-Sat. 40-50€

80, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 75010
01 42 46 02 44
M° Poissonniere
Tue-Sat. 35-40€

42 rue Leon Frot, 75011
01 43 70 59 27
M°: Charonne

Le Baron Bouge
1 rue Théophile Roussel, 75012
01 43 43 14 32
M°: Ledru-Rollin

Piston Pelican
15 rue de Bagnolet, 75020
01 43 71 15 76
M°: Alexandre Dumas

The EditorThe GuardianParis By MouthLe Figaro

Le Marché des Enfants Rouge

Le Marche? des Enfants-Rouges
It is the oldest market in Paris. Le Petit Marché was created in 1615 to serve Le Marais. It was renamed in remembrance of an orphanage near by. Along with neighbouring Rue de Bretagne, it is now one of the hippest markets in the Haut Marais. There are 20 stalls and restaurants in the market and there is a great photography ephemera shop as well. The adjacent street, Rue de Bretagne is worth a visit – a beer at Café Charlot is a must.

Here is a link to my Flickr set.

Marché des Enfants-Rouges
39 Rue de Bretagne, 75003
M° Temple

Horaires d’ouverture
Mardi, mercredi, jeudi : de 8h30 à 13h et de 16h à 19h30
Vendredi, samedi : de 8h30 à 13h et de 16h à 20h
Dimanche : de 8h30 à 14h

Restaurants in the 3rd and 4th

Les quatres flâneurs au Hangar
Le Hangar
12, Impasse Berthaud 75003

We’ve eaten here a couple of times and it’s great. It’s in a quiet courtyard near a small park (recently dedicated to Anne Frank). Good to eat here after shopping on Rue de Rivoli or wandering around the 3rd.

Restaurant Le Felteu
15, rue Pecquay, 75004
Tel: 01 42 72 14 51

“A ne pas manquer !” TripAdvisor Review

Taqueria Candelaria (Yes, tacos!)
52, rue de Saintonge, 75003
Sun-Wed: 12h-23h
Thu-Sat: 12h-00h
Bar: 19h-2h

Restaurants and bars in Montmartre

Salade de chèvre chaud artisanal de Fougere? avec un verre de Viognier, Domaine des Salices, J&F Lurton
Au Relais

48, rue Lamarck 75018

A wonderful, non-tourist restaurant – I found it while rambling in Montmartre. Great place for lunch before/after visiting Sacré-Coeur Basilica. Free WiFi. A short walk to M° Lamarck-Caulaincourt, featured in the film Amelie. TripAdvisor review.

The 7th
12-14 rue Joseph de Maistre 75018

The roof terrace bar of the 4-star Terrass Hotel in Montmartre has a beautiful view of Paris (on a sunny day). “The 7th floor vantage point that lends its name to the bar offers a spectacular view of Paris, with the Tour de Montparnasse, Les Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, lined up perfectly from left to right along the horizon.” — The Paris Blog (Doesn’t this sound enticing?)

Restaurants in the 10th

Chez Jeannette
47 rue du Faubourg-St Denis 75010
Mº Strasbourg St-Denis or Château d’Eau

“When she sold her café back in March 2007, Jeanette handed over to the young team from Chez Justine because they promised not to change a thing. The monstrous 1940s dust-coated lights, leaky loos, tobacco-stained wallpaper depicting the Moulin Rouge and PVC-covered banquettes have finally been cleaned up, and the café has become one of Paris’s hippest spots for an aperitif. There’s a plat du jour at lunch and plates of cheese and charcuterie at night; at 8pm, the fluorescent lights go off and candlelight takes over, to a cheer.” — Time Out

Anthony Bourdain

Anthony Bourdain’s show No Reservations features Paris twice – the very first show in July 2005 and the 100th episode, in September 2010.

The anniversary episode is a very revealing show about a new wave of restaurants in Paris and we must visit some of them.

Le Jeu de Quilles
45 Rue Boulard, 75014

Next door to Hugo’s boucherie is this small restaurant. Tony, Eric, Hugo and Hugo’s wife enjoy a beautiful breakfast.

Je Thé…me
4 Rue d’Alleray, 75015

Tony and Eric enjoy some tripe at this corner restaurant famous for making its nasty bits some of the most delicious in Paris.

Marie-Anne Cantin
12 Rue du Champ de Mars, 75007

Renowned cheese merchant and cheese refiner Marie-Anne Cantin perpetuates the tradition of French gastronomy. Marie-Anne and her husband, Antoine Dias, offer authentic and uncompromising cheeses.

Les Cocottes de Constant
135 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
Ouvert de 8h00 à 23h00
Service midi de 12h00 à 14h30, Jusqu’à 17h avec une carte réduite
Service soir de 19h00 à 23h00
Sans réservation
Ouvert tous les jours

Tony and Eric have lunch with food wizard Thierry Marx. A veteran of Taillevent and Joël Robuchon’s Jamin, the 44-year-old Mr. Marx is comfortable enough with his genius to be playful on the plate.

5 Rue de Montalembert, 75007

Tony samples the world-class cuisine of chefs Eric Lecerf and Philippe Braun at L’Atelier.

La Quincave
17 Rue Brea, 75006

Anthony Bourdain meets one of the hottest chefs in Paris, Yves Camdeborde of Le Comptoir at La Quincave, to discuss the future of dining in the City of Light. They sip on wine and taste amazing French cheeses.

Le Comptoir
Hotel Relais St-Germain
9 Carrefour de l’Odeon, 75006

Tony has dinner with chef Yves Comdeborde at his 20-seat restaurant, Le Comptoir.

5 Rue du Nil, 75002
Monday to Friday from 7pm to 10:30pm

Frenchie is known for its affordable menu and casually correct food. Chef Grégory Marchand spent most of his career working at Jamie Oliver’s 15 in London, where his nickname Frenchie was born, and at Gramercy Tavern in New York.

Le Chateaubriand
129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011

Inaki Aizpitarte combines flavors in a way that no traditional French chef would dare. At Le Chateubriand he reinvents the classic French bistro with a style all his own, often delivering his dishes personally.

Le Tete Dans Les Olives
2 Rue Sainte Marthe, 75010

Alexandre Cammas and Inaki Aizpitarte invite Tony and chef Eric Ripert to Le Tete Dans Les Olives where 10 people are served daily. The restaurant has 1 table and 1 chef, Cedric Casanova.

Restaurants around Bastille

Lubrication at La vache Acrobate

La Vache Acrobate
77 Rue Amelot 75011

Great for a beer or pitcher of wine. I spent many a morning and evening here. I didn’t know one can eat here, but according to reviews on the web, it’s quite good. Free WiFi.

Amici Miei
44, rue Saint-Sabin 75011

I managed to get into this stuffed-to-the-gills restauarnt. The ambiance is wonderful – bustling, but not too noisy, with delicious aromas emanating from the kitchen. I had the Carpaccio de pesce spada e melone (espadon et melon / swordfish with melon) as antipasti and Linguine alle vongole (palourdes / clam). It was all delicious, particularly the linguine. A 25cl carafe of red rounds everything off perfectly. it is well reviewed on the web.

Though situated in the 11th, these are a few minutes walk from Le Marais.